About
Transparency is important to us, and we share information openly. To give you a better insight into our work, we’ve compiled comprehensive topics for you to read.
“If music is mathematics made audible, origami is mathematics made visible.” — Paul Jackson
About Fine Principles
Fine Principles stands for clean lines, thoughtful design, and fine details. Founded on the desire to combine aesthetics and meaning, it has created a jewellery label with its own unique character.
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Founding story
Meet our founder Alexandra Schwarzwald — the creative mind behind Fine Principles.
With a keen eye for detail and a visual vocabulary that speaks the language of geometry and grids, Alexandra harnesses the potential of folding techniques to create multifaceted jewellery following a meticulous ordering principle.
But let’s start from the beginning. After graduating with a BA in Communication Design in 2016, Alexandra discovered her passion for jewellery making. She shifted her focus from graphic design to object design and began making wax models by hand. From the beginning of her journey, she approached her studies systematically, exploring facets and their impact on different dimensions.
Alexandra was looking for new design opportunities and decided to delve into the world of digital folding. With her newfound enthusiasm for 3D modelling, she decided to shift her focus from analogue wax work to digital, where she recognized great potential in this field.
In August 2021, she took a creative break and explored forms resulting from a variety of folding grids. After months of testing and prototyping, her first collection, ‘Series XF,’ was finally ready to be shown to the world. The presentation took place at the design fair BLICKFANG in Hamburg in October 2022, where the jewellery was presented to the public.
Folds as a source of inspiration
A principle as old as nature itself.
The term ‘fold’ (falten) is deeply rooted in our language. According to the DWDS (Digital Dictionary of the German Language), the Old German word ‘faldan’ first appeared around 800 AD and evolved over the following centuries from ‘valten’, ‘valden’, to ‘vōlden’, and in the 9th century from ‘faldōn’, ‘faltōn’, to finally ‘falten’. Thus, various meanings such as 'curve', 'interlace', or 'bend' were in circulation.
Folding has complex meanings and is, in the truest sense of the word, a product of nature. Over the course of our evolution, landscapes have folded, as have leaves, flowers, buds, mussels, snail shells, mushroom caps, insect wings, and much more. We ourselves carry them on our skin and even in our bodies in the form of a helical double helix — DNA.
Scientists, engineers, mathematicians, educators, artists, designers, and hobbyists of all ages continue to be fascinated by folding. It's not just about bending paper; it can be translated from 1D to 2D to 3D and is independent of the material.
The German educator Friedrich Fröbel recognized its potential early on and incorporated it into his ‘Spielgaben’ (gifts of games). Josef Albers and Paul Jackson, for example, also used paper folding to teach their students an understanding of geometry, spatial thinking, or simply artistic expression.
Many remarkable inventions have emerged from science and technology that have found inspiration in folding. For example, the airbag or tiny origami robots that enter the stomach via a capsule and can be controlled externally after unfolding.
Perhaps with this approach, we have shown you a new perspective on folding — a world that you can now discover for yourself.
Paul Jackson — Origami artist & educator
Inspired by Paul Jackson’s approach to folding, a universe shaped by geometry, creativity, and nature.
Since 1983, Paul Jackson has been a professional paper folder, paper artist, paper engineer, author, and teacher specializing in origami and the art of folding. He also ventures into other worlds, exploring folding in education, mathematics, physics, music, and, of course, nature.
To date, Paul Jackson has written over 40 books and taught students in design fields such as architecture, fashion, ceramics, jewellery, product design and textiles at more than 80 universities and colleges in 13 countries.
Together with his wife, Israeli origami artist and educator Miri Golan, he founded the Folding Together project and launched the Origametria program, which uses origami to teach geometry. Since 2018, it has been included in the national mathematics curriculum by the Israeli Ministry of Education.
More than 30,000 primary school children now learn origami every week to boost their self-confidence, but also to develop their motor skills, hand-eye coordination, logical thinking, concentration, aesthetics, three-dimensional perception and the basics of geometry.
Learn more about Paul Jackson
Concept of ‘beauty & logic’
Aligned with ‘beauty & logic’ — these are the two elements that define the jewellery.
In her work, she follows both design and mathematical principles to create a clearly structured concept that at the same time leaves room for creative development.
A central design principle is the transformation of two-dimensional folding grids into three-dimensional forms. The first collection, ‘Series XF’, draws its inspiration from the so-called ‘X-Form’ folding technique. As the name suggests, this creates a fascinating, repeating pattern of triangles that together form a rhythmic sequence of X’s.
Alexandra uses the geometric number sequence as a useful tool. This serves to precisely limit and control folds. The number of facets and dimensions are doubled (1, 2, 4, 8, etc.) or halved (1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc.) to ensure harmonious structure and recognizability.
Four of the six jewellery categories are consistently based on this principle. Rings and bracelets are an exception — they are individually adjusted to fit the body's natural measurements.
Series & the play with folds
The collections come as series because they present a clear structure and continuous design idea.
The first series, ‘X-Form,’ is based on the ‘X-Form’ folding technique. As the name suggests, this technique is characterized by a repeating pattern of triangles forming successive X-like shapes. The ‘X-Form’ is found not only in paper folding, but also in sculpture, art, architecture, ceramics, graphic design, and, of course, jewellery design.
Another example of playing with grids is the universal ‘V-Fold’ — a widely used method for folding surfaces and shapes. When executed with precision, this technique can unlock the potential for highly complex and intricate objects. By adjusting the folding angle or adding multiple grooves, the shape can be manipulated, creating a variety of unique patterns and forms.
This flexibility in design opens up the potential for numerous expressive possibilities, with each variation offering its own rhythm and visual texture.
IDs — Identification of the pieces
Each piece has an ID consisting of a number and letter code.
For example, the ID ‘XFCE642S’ represents the series ‘X-Form’, the category ‘Circle Earring’, the number of facets ‘64’, the material thickness ‘2’ and the size ‘S’.
The XF series hoop earrings are missing exactly a quarter of their facets. Nevertheless, a full number is used here, as the design is based on the circle earrings.
Alexandra only counts the facets that are defined according to the grid — the cutting edges are not taken into account.
“We avoid polishing. For more character.” — Alexandra Schwarzwald
About the production
Our pieces are manufactured in Pforzheim, where specialists incorporate their expertise and precision into the manufacturing process, combining modern techniques with traditional casting and goldsmith craftsmanship.
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Made in Pforzheim — Made in Germany
With over 250 years of jewellery and watchmaking tradition, Pforzheim is still a mecca for everything related to jewellery.
The gold city of Pforzheim — formerly Portus an der Enz, a Roman settlement founded in 90 BC — is a major city in the Black Forest with a long history for goldsmiths, jewellery artists, designers, and jewellery lovers.
That’s why we work with foundries, goldsmiths, and metal suppliers from Pforzheim, where all are locally based and well-connected. We believe in supporting local craftsmanship and strive for long-term relationships with our producers.
If you’d like to get in touch with us, please don’t hesitate to do so — hello@fineprinciples.com. We have already gained in-depth knowledge and experience in the industry and are happy to share our expertise with goldsmiths, designers, or simply jewellery lovers.
Fineness & alloys
The so-called alloys play an important role in the processing and function of the jewellery.
In short, an alloy is a combination of two chemical elements, one of which is always a metal. The unit of measurement of fineness indicates how much real gold or silver is contained in an alloy — and what proportion of other metals such as copper or tin are present.
Fine gold, for example, is almost pure gold with a gold content of 999.9‰. As valuable as it is, it is often too soft for jewellery. That’s why we use recycled 750 yellow gold — an alloy with 75% fine gold that comes from RJC-certified refineries around Pforzheim.
Fine silver is also too soft for jewellery in its original state, which is why we also offer an alloy here. We use 935 silver, which consists of 93.5% silver and is more stable and suitable for everyday use thanks to a small proportion of copper.
Our partner caster sources the precious metals from the region around Pforzheim, from companies that are certified members of the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council).’
Production — tradition & technology
From the initial idea to final inspection — the path from 2D to 3D and final production.
Currently, it takes several weeks to produce the jewellery in small quantities. This is due to the complex and time-consuming processes that take place in the background.
The journey begins with the exploration of folding techniques and initial ideas, which are further developed into sketches. Once the design is finalized, it is transferred into digital space using 3D software. Prototypes are then created, evaluated, and adjusted as needed. Finally, the CAD drawings are reviewed to ensure feasibility.
Once the design has been approved by the foundry in Pforzheim, the actual production phase begins, which is divided into four essential steps:
CAD review & 3D printing
The first step is to precisely print each model based on the CAD design. This allows for an even more precise realization of the jewellery piece, rather than using a silicone mould.
Lost wax casting
The models are carefully cast using the lost-wax casting method. Modern casting machines ensure that each piece — whether a one-off or a small series — is manufactured with precision.
Goldsmith work
After casting, the jewellery is hand-finished and cleaned to ensure each piece is ready to wear.
Vermeil (gold plating)
In this step, the jewellery receives a galvanic gold layer, which is applied in the desired colour (alloy) and thickness to complete the process.
Investment casting — lost wax casting
Casting is a craft that has been practiced for thousands of years and became possible with the development of brick kilns around 3000 BC.
Since then, various casting processes have been developed, such as centrifugal casting, pressure die casting, continuous casting and die casting, to name just a few.
Our partner foundry, Kalman Hafner GmbH from Pforzheim, specializes in investment casting and uses the lost-wax casting process to create the jewellery pieces. The process begins with printing each piece from wax components to create a positive mould. This mould is then used to create a plaster mould, which later fills the fired-out mould with molten precious metals.
Once the raw casting is complete, it undergoes careful quality control. In the event of any unforeseen defects, the casting is melted down on-site and reintroduced into the production cycle.
Unpolished facets
We’ve all heard the term ‘facet’ before, but few can describe it accurately.
The word itself is derived from the Latin ‘facies’ (meaning ‘front’ or ‘face’) and is basically nothing more than a flat or smooth surface on a geometry.
The facets in our jewellery are created during the transformation from 2D to 3D — they are therefore a central feature of our design. To preserve their clear lines and precision, we deliberately leave the surface untreated after casting and do not polish, as polishing always means removing material and character.
Instead, the surface remains unchanged after casting. The fine plot grooves of the print and the untreated surface give each piece a subtle texture that also maintains a subtle shine.
Small production on request
We believe that good jewellery takes time — and that responsible consumption begins with production.
That’s why we focus on small batches and only produce many of our jewellery pieces when you order them. This allows us to produce consciously and conserve resources.
So if your favourite piece isn’t available immediately, please be patient. Production can take about three to four weeks — you’re not getting an off-the-shelf product!
And if you’d prefer to see the jewellery in person before purchasing, you’re cordially invited to visit us at Stella Owusu’s InJewels gallery. We’ll be exhibiting a selection of our collection there — and we’d be happy to show you our pieces in person:
Address
InJewels Gallery, 1st backyard
Anklamer Straße 38, 10115 Berlin
Opening hours
Tuesday to Friday 10:30 AM — 3 PM
Saturday 12 PM — 6 PM
Special appointments outside these hours can be arranged via email
“It is not difficult to recognize what is good, but it is difficult to put it into practice.” — Confucius
About our responsibility
For us, certified origin isn’t an extra, but the foundation. At the same time, we pay close attention to the challenges of precious metal extraction and recycling.
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Certifications in production
We work with what we can responsibly do — and for us that means certified refineries and recycled or fair precious metals.
Our partner caster, Kalman Hafner GmbH, sources recycled gold and silver from refineries in and around Pforzheim, all of which are members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). These companies meet RJC standards — both in terms of material traceability (CoC = Chain of Custody) and ethical, social, and environmental responsibility (CoP = Code of Practices). In short, the RJC is the world’s leading sustainability organization in the jewellery industry.
Both our partner foundry and the associated goldsmith workshop also operate in accordance with REACH regulations. REACH is Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 of the European Union and stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals.
The focus is on protecting human health and the environment from the risks posed by the use of chemicals. At the same time, the aim is to improve the competitiveness of the EU chemical industry and promote alternative methods for the use of harmful substances in order to reduce animal testing.
In addition, Kalman Hafner GmbH also sources fairly mined gold and silver from Fairever, a certified supplier of Fairtrade and Fairmined precious metals. This ensures that the raw material is not only sourced ethically, but also with consideration for the environment and social justice.
RJC — Responsible Jewellery Council
Founded in 2005, the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council) is a leading global organization that sets standards for the global jewellery and watch industry to promote sustainable sourcing processes.
RJC is the only ISEAL member for sustainable standards and practices in the jewellery industry. The Code of Conduct is based on the 17 SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) and the ten principles of the UN Global Compact .
RJC CoC (Chain of Custody Standard) provides complete transparency of traceable and responsible sourcing practices. The certification provides information on how products and their materials were sourced, traced, and processed throughout the supply chain.
In addition, the CoC ensures that the procurement of semi-finished products manufactured by refineries certified by RJC, LBMA (The Independent Precious Metals Authority) or RMI (Responsible Minerals Initiative) is conflict-free.
RJCs CoP (Code of Practices Standard) enables practices focused on ethical, social, human rights, and environmental requirements. The CoP helps measure practical actions and is the only one that covers the entire jewellery and watch industry supply chain.
Learn more about RJC
Fairever — Fair gold & silver
Together for responsibly mined gold and silver — with social and ecological responsibility.
Our partner caster, Kalman Hafner GmbH, works closely with Fairever to source fair trade gold and silver. Fairever supports workers in small-scale mining by purchasing precious metals directly from responsible mines.
Fairever’s goal is to enable workers to live a safe and healthy life — embedded in a functioning society and an intact ecosystem. It is particularly important to support local communities, and especially small producers, through Fairtrade and Fairmined certifications to guarantee fair working conditions and fair pay throughout the entire supply chain.
Fairever sets itself apart from other sellers by championing sustainable mining practices and ethical jewellery — with the firm belief that this jewellery can have a positive impact on people and the environment.
Fine Principles — Fairmined licensed brand
Since September 2024, we are officially a Fairmined licensed brand!
This agreement is between us, Fine Principles, and ARM (Alliance for Responsible Mining, registered charity no.: S0001168).
The ARM develops standards aimed at transforming the artisanal and small-scale mining industry to ensure responsible and fair practices from an economic, environmental, ethical, and social perspective. The organization also supports access to certified precious metals through traceable supply chains.
Sustainability vs. recycling
Sustainability is a complex concept and requires the constant questioning of various core areas.
According to the Brundtland Definition of the United Nations (BMUV), it means “enabling development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (Brundtland Report, 1987). Four key aspects play a central role: ecological, economic, social, and cultural sustainability.
Ecological sustainability means using natural resources responsibly and protecting the environment. Economic sustainability ensures that economic developments remain viable in the long term and resources are used efficiently. Social sustainability encompasses fair working conditions, social justice, and the promotion of education and prosperity. Finally, cultural sustainability supports the preservation of traditions, values, and cultural diversity for future generations.
In the jewellery industry, terms like fair, sustainable, environmentally friendly, or recycled are often associated with positive values. But what do they really mean, especially in the context of precious metals? A particularly exciting example is recycled gold. At first glance, it appears to be an environmentally friendly solution — but the reality is far more complex. According to the OECD* (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development), gold is considered recycled if it has been transformed at least once after its initial refining — even if it was originally mined and never entered circulation. This shows how important it is to have a closer look.
In addition, recycling precious metals does not automatically reduce the mining of new raw materials — especially given the current high demand. Fairever points out that this process can still be energy-intensive, requires environmentally harmful chemicals, and causes overexploitation of natural resources. Social aspects must also not be ignored — child labour is unfortunately still a sad reality in many e-waste landfills.
At Fine Principles, we rely on certified and recycled RJC and Fairmined precious metals as a minimum standard. But sustainability means more than just choosing the right materials — it requires responsibility, awareness, and constant questioning. It's about creating transparency and sharing knowledge so that you, as a consumer, can make informed choices.
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* The OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development) is an international organization comprising 38 member countries and focuses on promoting economic growth, stability, and prosperity in its member states.
Its goal is to develop sustainable policy solutions that address global challenges such as poverty, environmental problems, and unemployment. The OECD is committed to a fairer, more inclusive, and more environmentally friendly global economy.
Old gold analysis
If you have old gold pieces at home and have always wanted to turn them into jewellery, we offer you the opportunity to exchange your old gold for gold credit.
We send your gold to our trusted refinery, where it is carefully tested for composition, authenticity, and fineness:
✓ Bring your precious metal to the InJewels Gallery, Anklamer Straße 38, 1st backyard, 10115 Berlin-Mitte.
✓ We look at your jewellery, record your details and check your ID card (due to legal requirements).
✓ We then have the refinery’s analysis team weigh your scrap metal and determine its components.
✓ Within 24 hours, you will receive the analysis and value of your precious metal — of course based on the current daily price.